About MYCS
the series
The MY (Midlands Youth) Climbing Series is a fun event organised by parents of local young climbers and the climbing walls of the Midlands.
The series is a fun, friendly competition for youth climbers age 7 - 18. It is a warm up for the British Youth Climbing Series run by the BMC and gives young climbers the opportunity to experience competitions in a friendly and supportive environment.
***Boulder Format Confirmation for 2023***
BOULDER ROUNDS
Boulder only rounds will consist of 8 problems and will be run in a scramble format. Athletes will have 2 hours to complete the 8 problems.
Scoring - The scoring system to be used will be individual scores for each hold. Each athlete will have a maximum of 5 attempts. Holds will be marked from a starting value and finishing at 59 points for the top hold. Matching the top hold will award the climber 60 points.
Getting to the top and matching on the 1st attempt will gain an additional 4 bonus points, 2nd attempt 3 bonus points, 3rd attempt 2 bonus points, 4th attempt 1 bonus point down to the 5th attempt which you get 0 bonus points.
So getting to the top on your 1st attempt will get you 64 points.
Your overall score for the round will be the sum of your 8 boulder scores.
Each attempt will have a time limit of 3 minutes.
ROPED ROUNDS
There will be four roped routes (top ropes for E and D categories and lead routes for C, B, A and Junior categories)
There will be a maximum of 6 minutes for each route.
The scoring for this round will follow the old system.
Top Rope
The top hold will be worth 99 points each scoring hold descending will be worth 2 points less, all the way down to the start hold. Matching you hands on the top hold will score you the maximum 100 points. Making a positive move towards a hold will gain you an extra point.
At the end of the 4 climbs the four scores will be added together giving you a total score.
Lead Rope
The top hold will be worth 99 points each scoring hold descending will be worth 2 points less, all the way down to the start hold. Clipping the top clip will give you a maximum 100 points. Making a positive move towards a hold will gain you an extra point.
At the end of the 4 climbs the four scores will be added together giving you a total score.
START TIMES
Rounds will have a staggered start - so please check the details for each individual round carefully
2022 has six rounds - there are certificates and placements for each round and climbers may compete in as many or few rounds as they like - however to be included in the overall series placements, at least five of the six rounds must be entered.
The following is a brief summary of the MY Climbing Series Rules. It is intended to help people gain a quick appreciation of the structure and rules of the series and should not be regarded as a replacement for a full understanding of the official rules.
RegisTration
The MYCS registration form is now online and can be found here: Registration Form. You only need to complete this form once no matter how many rounds you are entering.
Most of our host walls require competitors and parents to be members of the wall, however, membership fees are usually waived for MYCS climbers. Any specific requirements for individual walls will be detailed on the events page.
For 2022, registration times may vary for different categories, so please check the details of each round carefully.
Each round costs £15 to enter with the entry fee being paid directly to the wall on the day.
The Climbers
There are six age categories taking into consideration year of birth; these are the same age categories as for the BMC 2022 Youth Climbing Series, plus the Junior category.
There are separate male and female categories.
In the bouldering only rounds, competitors must complete ten boulder problems
In the mixed rounds competitors must complete 3 boulder problems and 3 climbing routes. Groups E and D climb on top ropes with groups C to Junior leading.
The competition is open to anyone with some climbing experience, not just those intending to climb in the BMC YCS and competitors can take part in as many rounds as they wish.
All entrants are responsible for providing personal climbing equipment i.e. harness, shoes, chalk bag, helmet. There may be some available from the host wall but remember to check first
Conduct
Each round of the MY Climbing Series is run by volunteers such as parents and local climbers. They are generously supported by the host climbing wall and its staff.
Certain regulations (most of which apply equally to competitors, spectators, parents and guardians) help to ensure the smooth running of the event and maintain a good-natured, fun atmosphere:
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The instructions of the Category Judge and Chief Judge must be followed at all times.
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Any disagreement with judging decisions must be taken up with the Chief Judge; NOT the Category Judge.
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Unsporting or abusive behaviour at any time will not be tolerated
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Climbers must be ready to take their turn on time.
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Do not distract or interfere with any competitor who is preparing for, or in the process of attempting, a climb.
Prizes
A spot prize 'raffle' will be held at each round.
Certificates are awarded to the top three climbers in each category at each round.
There will be trophies and prizes for the overall winners in each category at the grand final.
Overall ranking for the series will be decided by the ranking points total for each competitor's best three rounds (at least one of which must include a mixed route / boulder round).
There will be one Team prize offered; to determine the winning team the scores will be a combined total of the team's top 6 climbers across all categories.
A competitor can only represent one team and this must be clearly indicated on each entry form.
Safety
Parents are reminded that wearing helmets in competitions may prevent head injuries that may result from a fall or from
being struck by falling objects. Inexperienced climbers should normally wear helmets and even experienced climbers should
consider their actions carefully before deciding not to wear a helmet.
Risk and responsibility
Parents and young participants should be aware that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger
of personal injury or death. Parents and participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. The BMC publishes a wide range of publicity and good practice advice
and provides training opportunities for its members.
A parent, or an adult that a parent has arranged to be responsible for their child, must remain at the event to look after their
child.